Equine Education: Basic Principles

 My taming style is natural and rational method free from violence. The horse learns by association, in other words, it learns step by step and by stimulation. My theory of called Equine Education is based on my knowledge of horsemanship and theorical contributions of initial schooling of children, along with the knowledge inherited by my grandfather and my father in a combination of English dressage with the Doma Criolla, due they are European descents. Generally, I start my work with kind strokes, playing with them, riding bareback, with nothing to reduce extraneous factors and frightening. It’s a fact that bareback ride allows the transmission of human warmth and in this way it enables contact between the feelings of the horse and rider, leading to a more direct level. At this stage it is important to introduce the use of food stimuli to enhance the progress of work. I run with patience, respect their time and mainly trying to gain their trust. Once it is obtained, I begin to show that I do not mean to hurt them but to share something beautiful with them. I never yell to them, I just talk to them or make soothing sounds to calm them down but without stop paying me attention. Personally, I believe this stage is essential as it defines the taming process’s final achievements, winning their attention and respect, treating them with love we can easily win their heart without frightening. We become co-workers sharing this art. At this early stage, I recommend using the round pen to present an additional limit in favour of the trainer to work on a treadmill. But this device is to be gradually removed to make a truly complete dressage, we should aim to eliminate any barrier between the horse and the riders, mostly relying on the scope provided by this relationship, not only are external elements that support assistants. I do not submit the horses to my designs, I let them be. I give them space to show their character and courage, sympathy or antipathy, anger or joy, making me responsible for their reactions, responding to their needs and adapting the course of my dressage to everyone. A free horse can express the best of it. Then and once they trust me to the point of obeying my orders, and they present completely relaxed at work, I put the saddle carefully so as not to create a shock or bad impression to which the answer would be violence. As with children this would be something that will never be erased from their mind. I ride for the first time with reins to the muzzle or headstock in order not to hit their mouth, as a good mouth is essential for polo. I start with an English handle and then I give a proper handling of polo. Once they have that polo handle with the particular polo movements (an aspect in which I work a lot) I start teaching them to play polo. The first steps are at walking gate just to let them see what it is about. Then, I'll give rhythm and once it is assimilated I begin to slowly mix them with other horses. It's not good for them to fear the experience because like a human if they are afraid it is very difficult for them to learn. I think horses as children need formal education, school but also the family education, life in the countryside, so I recommend periods of intense work interspersed with periods of rest. During these periods it is important to keep in touch, sharing mutual respect and affection, with the word and attitude, to establish the necessary link for a good taming process.

Un Buen Herraje

Las herraduras se ponen para evitar el excesivo desgaste del casco, y esto ocurre cuando el desgaste del casco es superior al crecimiento del mismo. Entonces cuándo es propicio comenzar a herrar al caballo, cuando este lo necesita. Para herrar hay que levantar las patas y esto se empieza desde que el potro nace, sin más restricciones que las caricias y el cepillo como parte del cuidado diario. Es de una importancia vital revisarlos y aplomarlos periódicamente desde sus primeras semanas de vida, ya que hay defectos que a temprana edad se pueden corregir, pero no tienen solución más tarde. Se sabe que aproximadamente un 70% de los problemas de un caballo se localizan en sus miembros, y de ese total otro importante porcentaje son debidos a malos herrajes. Por eso es un trabajo que debe hacer un profesional capacitado. Pues el herrador tiene la desventaja sobre el veterinario que los resultados no son inmediatos, sino que se manifiestan a largo plazo pero con consecuencias tan graves uno como el otro. Entonces, ¿Cómo saber si un caballo está bien herrado?

Generalmente, suelen fijarse en la altura y nivel de los remaches, en el grado de descanso de la herradura o en lo agradable que pueda parecer el casco a la vista. Mas estas no son las premisas más importantes en la valoración del herraje y pueden trucarse fácilmente para engañar al ojo superficial.

Para juzgar a un herrador se necesita un plazo de aproximadamente un año, donde el casco esta renovado por completo para valorar honestamente el trabajo por sobre las múltiples variables contaminantes como el estado de los cascos, manejabilidad y trato del animal, estado de animo del herrador, etc.

El casco debe estar equilibrado en relación al remo, es decir, manteniendo un equilibrio medio-lateral consistente en la perpendicularidad de las líneas de la corona y el borde plantar con el eje de la extremidad. Además existe un equilibrio antero-posterior, es decir, las lumbres y talones deben de estar rebajados de manera que la línea de las lumbres siga la dirección de la cuartilla. Los talones deben de estar a la misma altura, y la herradura deberá estar centrada alrededor de un eje que normalmente coincide con el eje de la ranilla. Visto el casco por su parte palmar debemos de ver una herradura franca, que amplíe la base de sustentación del casco, que cubra bien talones y barras, que proporcione un descanso suficiente para la expansión de los talones al movimiento y que siga proporcionando apoyo al casco que esta creciendo. La ranilla bien cuidada y saneada marcando el centro de dirección de la herradura. La palma, limpia, pero sin adelgazamiento excesivo. Los clavos siempre por delante del punto más ancho del casco, para respetar el juego de los talones, abarcando tapa firme y formando remaches lisos y bien encastrados en la tapa. El canto de la herradura bien biselado para evitar las atrapadas.

Referencias:

·        Toucedo (1993), Guillermo A., El arte de herrar, Ed. Hemisferio Sur.

·        Christian, Thomas (1992), Hierre usted mismo a su caballo, Ed. El caballo S.A.

A Good Shooing

We shoe a horse to prevent excessive wear of its hooves, and this occurs when the wear of the hooves is higher than its growth. Then, when is it appropriate to start shoeing a horse? When it just needs it. To shoe the hoof should be lifted and this starts from the foal is born, without more restrictions than strokes and brushing as part of daily care. It is of vital importance to periodically go through them and give them plumb on the first weeks of life, as there are defects at an early age that can only be corrected at that age, but not later. It is known that approximately 70% of the problems of a horse are located in its members and of that total another large percentage are due to bad shoeing. So this is a work to be done by a trained professional. Being a farrier has the disadvantage of showing its results not immediately, but they appear in the long term with equal serious consequences. So how do you know if a horse is well shod?

People generally set at the height and level of the rivets, to the extent of rest of the shoe or how nice the hoof may seem at a sight. But these are not the most important assumptions in the evaluation of the shoe for they are easy to trick and therefore fool the green eye.

To judge a farrier you need a period of approximately one year, when the hoof is completely renovated, so as assess honestly the work due to its many pollutants as the hoofs’ condition, the animal handling and treatment, the farrier’s mood , etc.

The hooves should be balanced in relation to the paddle, maintaining a consistent medial-lateral balance in the perpendicularity of the lines of the crown and the plantar border with the axis of the limb. In addition, the toe and heels should be lowered so that the line of lights follow the direction of the pastern. The heels must be at the same height, and the shoe should be centered around an axis that normally coincides with the axis of the frog. Having regards to the hoof’s palm we must see an open bridle, to broaden the support base of the hoof, covering well-heels and bars, providing adequate rest for the expansion of the heels to move and to continue to provide support to the hull that is growing. The well-kept and healthy frog marking the center of management of the horseshoe. The palm must be cleaned but without excessive thinning. Nails always ahead of the widest point of the hoof to respect the set of the heels, covering tight lid and rivets forming smooth and well embedded in the lid. The edge of the horseshoe beveled to prevent trapped.

References:

·        Toucedo (1993), Guillermo A., El arte de herrar, Ed. Hemisferio Sur.

·        Christian, Thomas (1992), Hierre usted mismo a su caballo, Ed. El caballo S.A.

C. Hernan Hidalgo- Servicios de Herraje- Consultas: +54 02920 519369- Viedma, Río Negro.

Herrar un caballo: construyendo una relación

El caballo es un animal de presa y siempre, ante una situación desconocida, reaccionará buscando protección. No podemos olvidar el hecho de que su principal defensa es la huida, y por consecuencia, si alguno de sus miembros está herido, su capacidad de supervivencia casi se anula. Por este motivo, cuidará mucho de sus cascos y será la parte de su cuerpo que más le costará entregarnos. Sólo va permitir que los manipulemos si está realmente relajado con nuestra presencia. Debemos entender que cuando un caballo nos da sus cascos, nos está demostrando una gran confianza, y así también responsabilizarnos de esta.  Si nuestro caballo tiene problemas para darnos sus cascos puede ser porque no esta acostumbrado, viciado o también porque no se los pedimos de una forma correcta. Si el caballo tiene una lesión en alguna parte del cuerpo en particular en las extremidades inferiores se negará a hacerlo. Aquí, va una forma segura y lógica para hacerlo.

Aproxímese al caballo tranquilamente, hablándole en su tono bajo que refleje su propia relajación. Cómo exigirle calma, si nosotros mismos tememos a la situación. Así, se va acercando como pidiendo permiso de frente al caballo de modo que lo pueda observar, es importante dejarse anticipar y olfatear para ser identificado y no aparecer de sorpresa como una amenaza. Si se trabaja con el caballo atado, debe estarlo suficientemente largo como para que pueda girar su cabeza y ver los movimientos que hacemos con él, facilitando el trabajo en los posteriores. Su distancia con el caballo deberá ser la menor posible, pues una eventual defensa del caballo será más peligrosa si se encuentra a una altura media. Asegúrese que el caballo este correctamente parado para que no se incomode o pierda el equilibrio con nuestra intervención. Comience acariciando paciente y suavemente su cuello, con la mano izquierda sobre la cadera controlando el equilibrio del caballo, mantenga su propio cuerpo hacia la panza del caballo de modo que este no pueda golpearlo y la mano derecha será con la que tomará la pata o mano. Vaya descendiendo despacio, sin perder el contacto, a todo lo largo de la extremidad. No intente llegar directamente hasta la cuartilla, evite movimientos bruscos y con ello, accidentes. Pida el casco con cuidado, no lo fuerce o aprisione, ya que se sentirá amenazado. Coloque la mano sosteniendo la cuartilla por su parte posterior, empujando hacia la parte anterior del caballo siguiendo el movimiento natural de la extremidad. Si es necesario puede pellizcarlo ligeramente encima del menudillo, felicitándolo cuando obedezca. Es interesante repetir varias veces este levantamiento hasta que lo acepte. Una vez que el casco esta levantado, el proceso posterior es que comprenda que debe dejarla arriba. Así, el peso se deposita en las extremidades restantes, igualmente es conveniente que procure mantenerla apoyada sobre usted para darle un punto de sostén que le evite una sensación de inseguridad en el caballo. Si nota que se tensiona, reaccione de forma contraria relajándose y demostrando que no haya nada que temer. Al terminar el trabajo sobre el casco, suéltelo con la misma mano con que tomo el casco. Nunca olvide recompensar al caballo con un halago y una caricia para hacer de esto una rutina diaria agradable para ambos.

Herrar es una profesión de alto riesgo por eso es necesario minimizarlo informarse sobre la situación del caballo a intervenir como también perfeccionarse constantemente en técnica, herramientas, materiales, etc. Es importantísimo observar y anticiparse a toda reacción, sin quedarse con el solo concepto del caballo que nos brinda otra persona. Un caballo bien domado es un caballo seguro y por ello, un trabajo más sencillo donde solo debe acudir a la propia paciencia y tranquilidad. Es indispensable respetar sus tiempos de aprendizaje. Como ya lo he mencionado el caballo aprende por repetición, pues es mejor que sea de hechos positivos. Debe respetar al caballo, pero siempre manteniendo el control. Por ejemplo, al caballo que huye hacia atrás lo hace caminar aún más de modo que se de cuenta de que captamos su incomodidad pero debe aprender a aceptar la situación del herraje. Allí, son importantes los gestos de afecto táctil y verbal para acentuar su intención favorable hacia él. Siempre esta en usted demostrarle al caballo molesto por lo desconocido que no se le hará daño sino un bien.

En caballos viciados o agresivos se debe intentar repetidas veces la enseñanza por repetición con la inclusión de premios o castigos, mas estos últimos deben introducirse gradualmente evitando excesos que promuevan reacciones violentas y temor desmedido más que la aceptación. 

The horse is a prey animal that will always react for protection to an unknown situation. We can not forget the fact that their primary defense is running away, and therefore, if any of their members is injured, their ability to survive is almost vanished. That's why is so important to take care of their hooves and they will be the part of their body that they will most difficultly surrender. They will just allow you to manipulate them if they are really trust you. We must understand that when a horse gives his hoof it is showing us great trust, and thus also we must be responsible for this. If your horse has problems to give its hooves this may be because they aren’t used to this, it’s flawed or because you are not asking it correctly. If the horse has an injury somewhere in its body, particularly in its legs, it will seriously refuse to do so. Here is a safe and logical way to ask so.

Approach to the horse quietly, talking in a low tone that reflect your own relaxation. How to can you claim for relax, if even you are afraid of the situation. Face the horse as you move towards it like asking for permission, it is important to let it anticipate and sniff you to be identified and not appear in surprise as a threat. When working with the horse tied up it must be long enough to let it turn its head and see the movements you do. Your distance from the horse should be kept to the minimum possible so as to prevent any defense of the horse that would be more dangerous if it were at an average height. Make sure the horse is properly standing so as not to make it uncomfortable or off balance with our intervention. Start by gently stroking its neck, patiently with your left hand on its hip in order to control the balance of the horse, keep your own body to the horse's belly so that this can not beat you and the right hand will be with you will take the foot or hand. Go down slowly, without losing contact, throughout the limb. Do not try to go directly to the pastern, avoid sudden movements and thus accidents. Ask the hoof carefully, do not force or pinch it as they feel threatened. Place the hand holding the hoof’s back, pushing the front of the horse leg following the natural movement of the limb. If necessary, you can tweak it slightly above the fetlock, congratulating it when it obeys. It’s useful to repeat several times this movement until you are sure it accepted it. Once the hoof is raised, the following process is to make it understand that it should let its hoof up. Thus the weight is deposited on the remaining limbs; it is also desirable to keep it leaning on you to provide an anchor to avoid a sense of insecurity in the horse. If you notice it is stressed, reacting in a manner contrary relaxing and showing that there is nothing to fear. Upon completion of the work on the hull, then release it with the same hand that took the hooves. Never forget to reward the horse with a compliment and stroke to turn this in a pleasant daily routine for both.

Shoeing is a high risk profession so it is necessary to minimize them by collecting the more information about the situation of the horse you will work with as well as constantly updating on technique, tools, materials, etc. It is important to observe and anticipate any reaction, without being the only concept of the horse owner or any other person; you must be able to create your own view on the horse. A well-trained horse is a safer horse and therefore easier to work. As I have mentioned the horse learns through repetition, it is better to be of positive one. You must respect the horse, but always maintaining control of the situation. For example, with a horse who flees back make it walk even more so to make it realize that we understand its discomfort but it must learn to accept the situation. There are important gestures of affection and verbal touch to increase your positive intention toward it. It is always on you to show the horse bothered by the unknown situation that you are not damaging it but caring for it.  

In horses flawed or aggressive you should try various times, training it repeatedly with the inclusion of rewards or punishments, but this last ones should be introduced gradually to avoid excesses that could promote unnecessary reactions or fear rather than acceptance.